Electric probs - where to start

[BigVtwin996]

ok... ?
took most the front end off and inside out my 2.0HDi Blingo....

Started reassembly (all worked well other than washer pump before the tear down)

Not connected up seat belt stuff under the seats...
but just doing a few basic checks...

Headlights, main dip and sidelights work ok
Washers and Horn ok

But not a peep from the Electric windows, indicators or wipers....

Hanynes manual has gone walkabout
so any ideas where to start..

also on my van there is no manual diesel pump that I can see under the bonnet...
so any easy way to check fuel is getting through? or to air bleed even if it os self bleeding...

Nothing mechanical has been touched other than doing callipers and disks and a few bits like that
fires on easy start so want to see if fuel is getting through or something has gone wonky with th electrics...

many thanks in advance

[Sol]

All these things are directly controlled by the BSI. Sounds like yours is not happy. I'd start by checking all fuses labelled BSI here: (they power the BSI fuseboard)

   
   

Then here on the BSI itself:

   

After that, it's a BSI reset. Procedure is at the top of the how-to & tutorials section in pink. Disconnecting the battery while the BSI is awake, corrupts it's software in RAM so will need a reset.

Then failing all of the above, check you haven't severed or unbolted a body ground (there are plenty, for each circuit) and left it off by mistake.

[BigVtwin996]

cheers for that.. will work through things slowly....

bit more detail...
basically main work done was to get the front end up in the air, change disks calipers and strut bearings....

then removed an old Parot Handsfree kit with was simply a case of undoing the splicers...

it did start and run just before work was started...
that was prob a year ago lol (I take my time)
only electrics disconnected were headlights and indicators..

think the battery in the keyfob is flat...

pulled a pipe of the filter and diesel pumps out when ignition turned on

(ohhh how I miss my haynes manual.... scoured everywhere...
you can bet it will turn up when it's all done)

[Sol]

The battery in the key fob is not required for starting. That function only needs the non powered transponder chip, mounted in the key casing.

If that chip is missing (during key dismantling or battery replacement) then it will never start in a month of Sundays.

Jeez I'm getting tired, I never noticed this is on the M49 section, my brain saw B9. Those fuse layouts are for the B9, sorry. I don't have them for the M49.

But...I do have the M59 ones which should be identical to the M49! 

See below:

Engine fusebox 

  M59 PSF1.pdf (Size: 262.49 KB / Downloads: 3)

BSI fuse box

  M59 BSI1.pdf (Size: 168.6 KB / Downloads: 2)

[BigVtwin996]

cheers again
feel like crap so probably won't do much till next week....
no easy start or would try 2 get it to fire on that.....

[Sol]

It won't help, if the ECU is not allowing engine start authorisation, then easy start won't fix that. It will just run on easy start till that runs out.

HDi engines are fantastic starters in harsh conditions, being direct injection. If it won't go, and it's cranking fast enough but no fuel is coming through the injectors, then the ECU is likely unhappy with something. Or a major fuse has gone or some other electrical maladies.

[BigVtwin996]

I love the 2L Hdi this was my 3rd or 4th one....
I do have a 1556 in a mini... basically because it was a PSA engine....

tiz a bit of a funny one as it was running perfectly well before and not touched much under the bonnet...
sat with battery disconnected for about a year....
However it actually sat 5-6 years previously and started first turn after changing the injector seals....

will get there just need to get my head in gear....
I do have an Autocm diag .. will this work with the 2.0hdi and will it tell me much

[Sol]

Depends on its capabilities.

Not much if anything for most diag handhelds, the issue is the BSI is the network bridge and Citroen put the diagnostic medium speed CAN bus on pins 3&8, while everyone else uses pins 6&14, hence nothing works. 6&14 do have data on them but only ISO inter-system readiness data (emissions) for example, cat temps, and some other less useful stuff (to comply with the minimum EU rules on OBD).

The ABS system still uses K-line on Citroen too. So your device has to be able to switch between all 3 buses to work.

Next, all diagnostic requests go through the BSI first. If it doesn't hear the correct CAN messages, no further entry is allowed.

This is the reason most aftermarket diagnostic scanners find nothing, or very little. They need to have pin multiplexing and support all protocols, as well as various speeds. Like DiagBox and the Actia interface do. The non OEM ones find one speed and protocol that the BSI confirms as available, and they latch onto that, this is the end of getting any further.

They are usually using copies of the older ELM327 chipset which can only run at one protocol, once selected.

Modern Ford's use the same system, (MS CAN bus) and you need a clever adaptor for them too.

I'm working on a solution to these problems, more info soon...

[BigVtwin996]

I thought Autocom does most .. it does the BMW stuff that the cheapies can't do..
and its better than my mates Snapon

Just had a thought... I assume the van has an imobiliser....
is that not enabled/disabled by the key fob.. as the van has been indoors the doors were always left open, but now can't lock them as the remote battery is flat

the windows were wound down and not sure iif the doors were manually opened through the windows as the battery had been disconnected so the immobiliser had not been deactivated...

[Sol]

I can do all BMW coding and diagnostics using a vGate iCar Bluetooth device & Bimmercode / Bimmerlink as my missus has a Countryman All4 Cooper S, but that adaptor barely scratches the surface on the Citroen, just does basic stuff there.

Because one make works, doesn't mean another does to the same level. But you may be lucky. There are 9 OBD protocols and 4 speeds. So if the Autocom can do all of them AND switch between them as required, you may get all of it with that device. Let us know.

The immobiliser chip is passive, for starting but plays no part in locking. That's a separate system.

Maybe you have a bad key, bad Comm2k board in the steering column, a bad antenna in that board, these will all stop it doing anything when the lock button is pressed. If it tries to lock but fails, and clunks twice, you have one jammed lock or one that signals that the door is open, when it isn't.

I'd be checking the ignition relays on the car but you will find that difficult as they are not marked or have locations identified. Most will be in the base of the BSI PCB and the base of the engine bay fusebox. The BSI ones are soldered in and not marked..

This could take substantial effort to resolve, get a good meter and ServiceBox off eBay to see the schematics, then you have a chance.

Codes for anything beyond basic engine faults will be hard to get without Diagbox and even then, only paint part of the picture.