You put the starter motor WHERE???

[shtu]

More of a rant than anything else, but which Absinthe-soaked maniac decided to put the starter motor at the back of the engine, then box it in with wiring and heatshields?

I'm currently using allen keys and my best James Herriot impersonation to get at the top bolt from underneath, because of course that's the best route in. And of course there's enough space to get roughly 1/16th of a turn on the fastener, so good luck with that.

Absolute madness.

[Stoots1975]

More of a rant than anything else, but which Absinthe-soaked maniac decided to put the starter motor at the back of the engine, then box it in with wiring and heatshields?

I'm currently using allen keys and my best James Herriot impersonation to get at the top bolt from underneath, because of course that's the best route in. And of course there's enough space to get roughly 1/16th of a turn on the fastener, so good luck with that.

Absolute madness.

Time to buy Allan head sockets and a 72 tooth ratchet??

[shtu]

Oh I have those, maybe not as toothy a ratchet as that.

Snag is, you can't* get it into place assembled (socket+extension+handle), you can't assemble it in-situ, and there's too much slop if you don't click all the parts together fully, because you can't reach the locking button on the ratchet.


*ok, I can't.

[Gadgetman]

I hgave a 3/8" ratchet extender...   
   

The other item is a ratchet that looks normal... 
But you can twist the handle.   

Those two tools are just brilliant when working on our Beloved Berlingos.

[jemselectrical]

More of a rant than anything else, but which Absinthe-soaked maniac decided to put the starter motor at the back of the engine, then box it in with wiring and heatshields?

I'm currently using allen keys and my best James Herriot impersonation to get at the top bolt from underneath, because of course that's the best route in. And of course there's enough space to get roughly 1/16th of a turn on the fastener, so good luck with that.

Absolute madness.

Lol, I have this exact nightmare to look forward to deep breath brother

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[ItsGreen]

They did that to stop people like us from playing with it 

I'm sure they designed the gearbox with the diff the wrong way round, so to fix it, they just put everything under the bonnet in backwards.

[Tikki]

It was a "easy" job. just one bolt that is a pain to remove. but with a ratchet and extention bar it was no problem

[shtu]

Lol, I have this exact nightmare to look forward to deep breath brother

The trick, such as it is, it to disconnect the wiring from the motor, both are ring terminals with a nut, and unclip it nearby. There's aslo a heatshield that can be unclipped and shoved out of the way. That buys you enough space to get at the two "rear" bolts. 6mm allen head on mine.

But wait, there's more!

There's a "front" bolt whose head is on the gearbox side of the bellhousing. You can't see it, but it's there. Luckily they're not massively tight, once they crack loose you can wind them out. Definitley ones to put a dab of copaslip on when you put them back, and don't overtighten.

As for actually getting the motor out of that space*? Damned if I know, I only managed it once the gearbox was 3" away from the engine. And my next job is to fathom out how to get that all the way out.

Citroens - for when BDSM just isn't painful enough.



*I think that taking off the short frontpipe that loops over the crossmember might be the trick here.

[shtu]

I only managed it once the gearbox was 3" away from the engine. And my next job is to fathom out how to get that all the way out.

If anyone cares, the trick is that you MUST remove the gearbox mount "pin" from the gearbox.

Which is a PITA for two reasons,

a) The pin is steel, screwed into an alloy bracket, and OF COURSE it seizes in place.
2) Of the 3 bolts holding the bracket to the gearbox, 1 of them is covered by a big washer, that's held in place by the pin. That is seized in place.
III) The hex on the pin is not-really 17mm in size, so unscrewing it is, er, tricky.

The answer? Blowtorch and Stilsons to get it moving a little, then stack two nuts on the thread, lock them together, and use that to unwind the pin. Lots of hot blowtorch action required.

With that pin and bracket removed, the gearbox basically falls out.

[jemselectrical]

Lol, I have this exact nightmare to look forward to deep breath brother

The trick, such as it is, it to disconnect the wiring from the motor, both are ring terminals with a nut, and unclip it nearby. There's aslo a heatshield that can be unclipped and shoved out of the way. That buys you enough space to get at the two "rear" bolts. 6mm allen head on mine.

But wait, there's more!

There's a "front" bolt whose head is on the gearbox side of the bellhousing. You can't see it, but it's there. Luckily they're not massively tight, once they crack loose you can wind them out. Definitley ones to put a dab of copaslip on when you put them back, and don't overtighten.

As for actually getting the motor out of that space*? Damned if I know, I only managed it once the gearbox was 3" away from the engine. And my next job is to fathom out how to get that all the way out.

Citroens - for when BDSM just isn't painful enough.



*I think that taking off the short frontpipe that loops over the crossmember might be the trick here.

I'm hoping that I'll have a slightly easier time of it getting mine out, as I've got the petrol engine. Compared to the dv6, the TU5 engine has loads more space behind it in comparison

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