Water under boot carpet.

[Onion_Bhaji]

Any members had this, its just happened lately, brought to my attention by a family member who mentioned a damp smell while sitting in the back seats.
Today I've looked in the boot and the carpet where the door meets the boot in wet underneath. 
Tomorrow I'll have a proper investigation, I'm thinking the water pipe for the back windscreen is leaking.?
Any info appreciated..

[jemselectrical]

If it's anything it'll either be the sliding door rail seals leaking by, or water ingress via the high level brake light on the tailgate.

Is the carpet damp/wet in the rear passenger footwells(compartments), or just in the boot area near the tailgate?

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[Onion_Bhaji]

Thanks for the reply, from the brief look I had late this afternoon its just wet at the back by the boot door.

[Sol]

Could be the rear squirter then.

But check inside the rear door bottom section, the handles let water in from new and they put drain holes in the door to let it out but they get blocked.

[Onion_Bhaji]

(If it's anything it'll either be the sliding door rail seals leaking)

Lifted the boot carpet & it's absolutely soaking wet, traced the leak to the drivers side, see photos. In one you can see water approx 10mm deep on top of black plastic.

I take it it'll be the door rail seal, is there a decent sealer to use to repair this.?

To late tonight, so tomorrow I'll be taking the outside running guide of to see if this is defo the problem.

https://ibb.co/KrjBV6B
https://ibb.co/Wcf8Hjr
https://ibb.co/Jtcz0QY

[jemselectrical]

Pretty much guaranteed it's the door rail seal(s) if it's driver's side. You really need two people to be able to take the rail off, as you'll need to prop up the lower back leading edge of the sliding door to stop it from dropping down as you dismount the rail.

Undo and remove the fixing bolt at the front of the rail where it curves into the van first. Then shut the door fully whilst you are undoing the remaining fixings. Once you've undone those, you can then open the sliding door, whilst holding firmly onto the back edge of the door while another person props it up with a jack. You can use anything to prop it up, but a jack will enable you to more easily align the door when it comes to refitting the rail.

There are sticky plastic round gaskets around the fixing points and the alignment dowels on the rails back face. These, along with the thin rubber seal around the bump stop recess at the rear of the rail are the main points of failure. Clean them off, along with the bodywork it bolts to thoroughly with degreaser (I used water based UPOL panel wipe), then silicone around the mating faces of the gaskets and bolt it back up. Leave it for a day after wiping the excess off so it can properly cure. You really need to do this under cover btw.

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[jemselectrical]

This is the gear I used to clean the surfaces    

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[Onion_Bhaji]

Thanks for the detailed reply Jems much appreciated, job for the weekend..

[Onion_Bhaji]

Job sorted now, found it easier to unbolt the two torx bolts that hold the rail runner onto the door itself, you need two people as Jems has stated.

After that the rail comes off easy, see photos, this is what your left with.

https://ibb.co/qFtJ4Dn
https://ibb.co/tXQqr9j

The threads for the torx bolts are clearly rusted, three places that the water has leaked in.

I used black sikaflex as a sealant, £10 a pop for one tube, but I want to do this job once, also have plenty left if the other side leaks.
Plenty sealant on, then nipped up till the mating surfaces marry up, left for 1/2 an hour, then tightened further, this sealant cures quickly, but doesn't go hard, it's flexible when cured.
Putting it back together is easy with two people, I then tightened the passenger side up which two of the torx bolts were slack, constant use of the doors probably the reason they were.
Hope this helps anyone who has or gets the same problem.