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CV boot Woes
Hi..just been crawling around under the Bingo 2.0 Hdi 74k for a pre MOT check and both outer CV boots are holed -see photos- I reckon they look like they've been pinched ( the O/S has a pinch hole and the N/S has a chunk bitten out of it and the bellows is kind of flattened and stuck on one edge - amost as if its been jacked on the bellows!). Last month both springs failed on the front and I got them replaced by a national garage chain. I'm wondering whether they've pinched the boots in their fitting procedure - they didn't draw my attention any damage and its not subtle since there's grease everywhere now. Before I politely start accusing them of the damage and make a kn** of myself does anyone know if this damage can be caused by spring fitting ? or can this be caused by spring failure? - I had to drive the car to the garage so did a few miles can I have damaged the boots in turning ? I really can't see how I may have done it and even if a foreign body has subsequently found its way above the wishbone and rattled around, its seems odd that its the same type of failure both side and in the same place. Apart from the holes, the boots are in very good condition and no other work has been done on the car. Any advice/observations appreciated (apart from 'dont go there again' !!)

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Bill Most boots that I have had go over the years split nearer the middle and in the grooves, looks a bit strange to me but without proof I would not like to accuse anyone
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to jimbo for this post:
  • bingobill
Hi jimbo, thanks - yes I think I'm on thin ice here. The splits you talk about are the ones I've seen on other cars I've had. It looks like either somethings jammed up when I drove it - slowly- to the garage - but its was driving ok just clunking the springs when I turned or maybe(this is my paranoia kicking in) the drive shafts have been forced up to help split the ball joints - but I would have thought there's better places to bear on than the CV boot - the bottom line is that I'm really mad with myself for not the job sooner and my MOTs up in a week! aaaarrrrghhhhhh!
I'm with jimbo on this one, from your photos the alleged damage does seem to be in a strange place and it looks like localised scuffing around the area of the split.
Wouldn't like to say for certain, only certainty would have been a before and after photo.
Think the ball joints are similar to a Pug306 and are not on a taper but have a master slot for a bolt to go through so no need for a joint splitter. Did gaiters on my 306 but a bit of a sod to get them to stay on the C.V. joint. Ended up doing job twice, 2nd time cleaned outside of CV joint and used Evostik on gaiter and C.V.
they stayed stuck that time and used a big cable tie around the outside. Once the big nut on the end of the CV is undone and the suspension is split the shafts should coume out with a light tap but don't do like I did. Make sure you have a drain tray beneath the gearbox end as the oil comes out at a rate of knots once the shaft is out. Most of mine went down the drive!!!!. Some sources also reccomend that the seals at the geabox end are replaced at the same time as the shafts are removed and refitted. Good luck.
Berlingo Multispace 2.0HDI '54 reg Mediterranean Blue
Hi andy-womble, - I'll have a moan at the garage just to make me feel better and get me in the mood ;-) so I'll be under the car tomorrow one way or another! Thanks for the walkthrough - I just dug up my Haines and you're right about not having to use wedges. For the boots I was going to try the big plastic cone thing as i can get this in the local factors. I saw boot kits on E**y and there's a demo video showing a guy putting them on using a cone. Theres a bit of a condom moment but it looks easier than taking the joints apart ( I've never tried split boots). I was going to try and do the outboard damaged boots and leave the shafts in the diff. Its a good theory but how easy will depends how much clearance I've got - we'll see. I did the diff oil seals on a cavalier once which turned into a forever job - I had to borrow a car to get to work !!....hope it doesn't rain tomorrow!
I have used the stretchy boots before and they worked fine I did not have a cone so used an old fizzy drink bottle with the bottom cut off I used plenty of spray silicon (we call it refurb it is a bit like a dash shine spray) good luck tomorrow, oh the joys motoring on a budget.
..Just to tie this one up..I chickened out of going to the garage after reading more on the net about Audi boots popping open at around 70K. Anyway - yesterday went to factors bought the plastic cone for 10 quid and two QH Duraboot stretchy boot kits at 9 quid each (boots, grease and clips). I got the car axles standed, hub nuts off(35 mm hub nut) etc. no problem -- and then -- the bl**dy swivel joints took me ages (its just one little photo in the Haines manual). The clamp nut and bolt was rusted to buggery. Getting the pin out of the clamp really is the worst part of the job. (everything else is easy in comparison) Copious amounts of WD40 and non-gentle persuasion with a lump hammer and a cold chisel and I got the bolt out and the pin out of the clamp. On both sides the lock nut/bolt was beyond hope and definately needs replacing. As the Haines recommends you really have to rig up a lever to pull the wishbone/swivel joint down when doing this job.
... The stretchy boot/cone thing was a doddle in comparison. There's plenty of room once you get the CV joint away from the hub ( see photo). I coated the cone and boot with silicon lubricant and a bit of CV grease, turned the boot inside, and shoved it as far up the cone as I could. I put the cone over the cv joint and using a clean cloth(otherwise your hands slip when the going gets tough ) gave the boot a heave over the big end of the cone, onto the shaft and turned it inside in(?) again. I ended up reusing the Citroen boot clips as they are better than supplied ones and are the same design as used on rubber pipes on the car - I had the right pliers from another job to take them off and put them on correctly.(Laser tools 3397). Anyway everything is torqued up and back together - job done.
So...I'll never know if the cv boots were damaged or just gave up - what I do know is that when the springs were replaced the swivel joints weren't cracked open (otherwise I wouldn't have had soooooo much difficulty) so there must be enough clearance to undo the struts at the top and pull them down into the wheel arch to replace the springs. What I also noticed is that theres a clamp arrangement at the botton rear of the suspension strut and if you pulled the struct down far enough this could perforate/slice the inboard end of the outer CV boot in the area where I had damage.....hmmmmmm.....
Thanks for the advice from everybody...and it did rain, and rain, and rain some more!

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[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to bingobill for this post:
  • rublehousen
Well at least it is one job you will not have to do again for a while it is quite amazing how much those boots stretch and then shrink back to the correct size .regards Jamie
Nice one bingobill, at least you are mobile again and at a reasonable cost.
Might just try one of the plastic cones if I need to do the job at any time.
A lot of garages don't like replacing CV boots nowadays and would rather sell and fit you a recon driveshaft.
Enjoy your Berlingo.
Berlingo Multispace 2.0HDI '54 reg Mediterranean Blue

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