[Engine] Timing pin sets

[evdama]

Its time for that job and doing some looking I see some people use a handful of old bolts and Allen keys but the real ones come in two sets.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266280172104
Or
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/395204631466

What are the additional bits for?
So far it's looks my to be the only special tool I would need so I could invest.

[shtu]

What are the additional bits for?

Lord knows. A £6 set worked fine for a cambelt swap on my 1.6 HDI, 9HL engine code.

Strictly speaking you don't even need to lock the high-pressure fuel punp as it's not timed to the engine, though I did it anyway.

Biggest struggle you will have is the crank bolt. An impact gun is very useful for that.

[geoff]

.....

[evdama]

Thanks Geoff

[geoff]

^^^ I replied with misinformation as I misread the eBay adverts - couldn't fully remove the posting so had to leave it .....  sorry.

[evdama]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=toTKvACZiDE

I've watched this one,(pretty good)and he used the cheaper set.
So I went for that

[evdama]

Well I have nearly completed the job,with just the arch liner and under tray to repair cracks in when it's stopped raining so that will be next year sometime.

The job went ok overall.
The alternator belt was cracked on the inside ( 58k and twelve years )

The water pump was in good condition.
The timing belt was on first look in really good shape.
But by chance I looked at the tensioner first and it was WAY out of range so I think that the belt would more likely jumped than snapped.
The idler pulley was a tiny bit rougher sounding than its replacement.
The crankshaft bolt didn't put up much of a struggle.
I used a 1/4" hex drive dewalt impact driver . A quick chatter clockwise first then whizzed it off the other way.
I pinned the fuel pump which is a practice in dispute between forums and youtube.
This led to a three hour delay when tensioning
I could not get the belt anything near right  enough
I had it back off to check it was the right one
The teeth would not sit in the fuel pump sprocket despite meshing everywhere else.
I had to get the new tensioner back off to reload the spring.
Several times.
It will have to do??
Started to reassemble then went in for a coffee and the self doubt kicked in.
Went back for another go.
I tried umpteen times from scratch.
No difference until I pulled the pin out of the pump and it a'll meshes correctly.The pump is sprung.No-one told me that.
I got the marks on the tensioner just right and checked several times after winding the motor over.
But it's still troubling me if it's correct.
In reassembly the next issue was that in all the faffing I'd knocked out the Allen key that was holding back the auxiliary belt tensioner.The lug was now under the engine mount which had to come back off after the top belt cover as well.
Grrrr.
I didn't have a 16mm ring spanner for the inner mount which is a pig of a design but found a 5/8" in my grandad 's old toolbox that was perfect.
On the subject of tools I bought a Kamasa socket set with my first pay packet when I was seventeen .In there was a 7mm socket which has remained unused for 40years.
Until now,and boy has it earned its keep in the last 24 hrs...
Also a 50-200nm torque wrench I had to buy for an old BMW R80 that I only ever used that once finally made good.

Engine started and instantly put out a blood curdling shreik.
I felt sick.
This was my one break in the weather as my garage is the gutter on the road outside.
Started tearing it all back apart again.
By pure luck I saw one of the  lower belt cover bolts was very shiny-and not screwed in properly.
The crankshaft pulley had been bearing down on it!
Resolved this issue and reassembled again.
With the motor running sweetly(at least for now...)
I changed the rest of the coolant.
I'd bought a smart bleeding funnel which was bleeding useless as it didn't fit the resevoir.
So I unbolted  the reservoir and put it up on a wooden block with the cap off to get some gravity working, which over the space of four hours and 15 quidsworth of antifreeze did the trick.I- won't go any further with that particular episode as it's too embarrassing....just remember to have your phone on you at all times guys.

The OH says it runs quieter at idle which is quitepossible with three bearings renewed.
My tinnitus prevents me from verification in afraid.

It's now been  running ok at the correct temperature for a few hours so I just have to summon the courage to do a road test..

Dv6eted 9hn 1.6 hdi 8valve sohc by the way.

[shtu]

Don't worry about the high pressure pump. It's not like the old days where the injection pump was driven off the cambelt and needed to be timed accurately with the crank and cam so that injection happened at the right time.

The high pressure pump just feeds, er, high pressure fuel to the fuel rail, injection timing is taken care of by the engine ECU.

Here's what the fuel rail looks like - a metal tube with 1 inlet and 4 outlets. There's absolutely no way the pump timing could affect the injection timing, because they're all connected via the common rail.

https://www.usedcarpartsuk.co.uk/admin/u...sensor.jpg

The "springingess", just the pump's internals.

[evdama]

Stu there's a tab next to the fuel pump sprocket that's rotated round about 20°from where it was pinned?

I did a 15 mile round trip this morning and all seems well -it maintains normal temp and the heater works.
I had to put a tiny bit of coolant in so I assume it's found a bubble.
 I had pressure tested the water pump with a no8 demijohn bung with a tyre valve solvent welded into its hole.It had to be cable tied in but did the trick

I sprayed soapy water over the pump and checked for bubbles and a drop in the tyre pressure guage.
All ok so far

[shtu]

From what I can tell, the pin does lock the pump sprocket, for two not-timing-related purposes,

- So that you can undo the Big Nut that holds the sprocket on.
- To make fitting the belt "easier".

Sounds like you found it easier to do without that locked - as long as you kept the crank and cam locked without any excess between those while fitting and tensioning, you'll be fine. Any slack needs to be on the section where the tensioner runs.

Frankly, If you had it wrong you would know by now. You wound the engine over, reinserted the cam and crank pins, so you're good.

On the coolant - there's two bleed points, one at the thermostat and one at the heater pipes on the bulkhead. They look like tyre valves. Only loosen them a bit.