I'll edit this post in about 36 hours with pictures, at present parts are spread over two locations with ten miles' separation.
Problem: Nearside mirror shell damaged, front and rear pieces.
Idea: Why not put later Electric mirror in - it's all prewired on my car?
First snag: Breaker mirror arrives with UPS-added smashing to bezel plate (which is heat welded to metal bracket). The joys of living where I do...
Brainwave: Why not "mix and match" the two bits; both have different breakages?
So... Door card off, plenty of spare clips to hand from Halliday Citroën. Mirror knob overcap pulled off, inner garnish plate eased away. Remove the three mirror mount screws (T20) and gently pull the whole lot outwards and off the door. Carefully work off the weatherseal.
Next I needed two teensy panel pins. The "shroud" of the manual adjuster is clipped onto its inner column by two spring tabs; with a screwdriver I prised up each tab in turn and slipped a panel pin crossways under it - stopping the tab from locking back in. Now I removed the single T10 headed screw holding this shroud and pulled it off.
Returning to the mirror face, carefully maxing out the mirror tilt as if towards the bodyshell, I released the retainer clips one at a time until the mirror glass was free. It was unheated, so no wires to sweat on. Shown below is a heated unit; all that differs is the two extra wires for heated glass.
[Image: mirrorclips.jpg]
This exposed the four Torx headed screws (Mk1=T10, Mk2=T20) which join front and rear sections of the main shell together. As my original was shattered, I had to grip the broken plastic "stumps" with pliers to unscrew it all. When removing an intact one, observe and carefully release the single click connection between front and rear shell parts, at the hinge pivot area. My screwdriver is pointing at one of the four screwholes (all empty now).
[Image: mirrorshellfixings.jpg]
At this point, I had a star-shaped mirror skeleton in metal, with the plastic bezel plate intact and still bonded to the bracket base, and the cable adjuster mechanism still attached. Shown below is an electric adjuster, although the three goldy-coloured screws are a different length between manual and electric the locations and threads are identical.
[Image: mirrorframebare.jpg]
To remove the small cover plate under the pivot, came next. This is eased out from the outermost edge with a thin, wide, flat-bladed prying tool. Now the cable/toggle may be pushed through so it comes out where the cover was - be firm and confident. Next feed the cable/toggle up through the pivot centre.
Finally remove the three T10 screws holding the gimbal adjustment mechanism to the metal skeleton, and withdraw the cable/toggle towards the glazed face. It's now down in pieces about far as you can get without plastic welding.
Dismantling the electric mirror is similarly approached, the big difference is you need to disengage the wiring feeds from the motor/gimbal assembly - taking care not to break the fine plastic connection retainer clip - then feed them down the pivot and towards the bracket base.
There has been a small modification over production time, to the hole in the bracket base through which wiring or the adjuster cables may pass. It has been enlarged - the new size can be readily mimicked with a die grinder or judicious use of a hacksaw blade. Everything else is good to go for swapping about. Below are the two bases for comparison:
[Image: mirrorbasescompared.jpg]
Many mirrors I buy from the UK have suffered corrosion to the alloy pivot/bracket assembly, I normally work with a penetrating solvent first up, then progress to light oils; finally waterproof greases can be worked in. Be patient, as once they crack it's all over.
When it comes to refitting, I like to thoroughly clean and detail the affected area first, including a good coat of wax - helps keep the edges looking sharp and free of green growth. I also treat the plastics with my heat gun to re-black them; sure it's not permanent but it's free and works at about 85% the successful appearance of refinning stuff.
Problem: Nearside mirror shell damaged, front and rear pieces.
Idea: Why not put later Electric mirror in - it's all prewired on my car?
First snag: Breaker mirror arrives with UPS-added smashing to bezel plate (which is heat welded to metal bracket). The joys of living where I do...
Brainwave: Why not "mix and match" the two bits; both have different breakages?
So... Door card off, plenty of spare clips to hand from Halliday Citroën. Mirror knob overcap pulled off, inner garnish plate eased away. Remove the three mirror mount screws (T20) and gently pull the whole lot outwards and off the door. Carefully work off the weatherseal.
Next I needed two teensy panel pins. The "shroud" of the manual adjuster is clipped onto its inner column by two spring tabs; with a screwdriver I prised up each tab in turn and slipped a panel pin crossways under it - stopping the tab from locking back in. Now I removed the single T10 headed screw holding this shroud and pulled it off.
Returning to the mirror face, carefully maxing out the mirror tilt as if towards the bodyshell, I released the retainer clips one at a time until the mirror glass was free. It was unheated, so no wires to sweat on. Shown below is a heated unit; all that differs is the two extra wires for heated glass.
[Image: mirrorclips.jpg]
This exposed the four Torx headed screws (Mk1=T10, Mk2=T20) which join front and rear sections of the main shell together. As my original was shattered, I had to grip the broken plastic "stumps" with pliers to unscrew it all. When removing an intact one, observe and carefully release the single click connection between front and rear shell parts, at the hinge pivot area. My screwdriver is pointing at one of the four screwholes (all empty now).
[Image: mirrorshellfixings.jpg]
At this point, I had a star-shaped mirror skeleton in metal, with the plastic bezel plate intact and still bonded to the bracket base, and the cable adjuster mechanism still attached. Shown below is an electric adjuster, although the three goldy-coloured screws are a different length between manual and electric the locations and threads are identical.
[Image: mirrorframebare.jpg]
To remove the small cover plate under the pivot, came next. This is eased out from the outermost edge with a thin, wide, flat-bladed prying tool. Now the cable/toggle may be pushed through so it comes out where the cover was - be firm and confident. Next feed the cable/toggle up through the pivot centre.
Finally remove the three T10 screws holding the gimbal adjustment mechanism to the metal skeleton, and withdraw the cable/toggle towards the glazed face. It's now down in pieces about far as you can get without plastic welding.
Dismantling the electric mirror is similarly approached, the big difference is you need to disengage the wiring feeds from the motor/gimbal assembly - taking care not to break the fine plastic connection retainer clip - then feed them down the pivot and towards the bracket base.
There has been a small modification over production time, to the hole in the bracket base through which wiring or the adjuster cables may pass. It has been enlarged - the new size can be readily mimicked with a die grinder or judicious use of a hacksaw blade. Everything else is good to go for swapping about. Below are the two bases for comparison:
[Image: mirrorbasescompared.jpg]
Many mirrors I buy from the UK have suffered corrosion to the alloy pivot/bracket assembly, I normally work with a penetrating solvent first up, then progress to light oils; finally waterproof greases can be worked in. Be patient, as once they crack it's all over.
When it comes to refitting, I like to thoroughly clean and detail the affected area first, including a good coat of wax - helps keep the edges looking sharp and free of green growth. I also treat the plastics with my heat gun to re-black them; sure it's not permanent but it's free and works at about 85% the successful appearance of refinning stuff.
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