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Post your Ghetto Fabrication / Modifications "Photos only"
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So the neighbor made the mistake of buying french and now his 206 is flashing lights when the doors are opened, they come up at random times at night draining his battery. Central locking is playing up as well as his wipers. So what do I do being a nice friendly guy? I start telling him horror stories about 1000gbp BSI repair jobs and how Citroen/Peugeot dealer can't find wtf is wrong with the electrics even if the plug x10 Lexias in multiplayer gaming mode. Most likely deeming the repair to expensive and not worthy.
No actually what I also did, apart from telling the stories, I unhooked his BSI module, I removed the casing, didn't bother detaching the boards from one another, and just shoved it in the oven at 200deg gas mark 6 for total of 5-7min. At the end I gave it a Dr. Oetker certificate of excellence...
http://i.imgur.com/jqNZt81.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/xWfVX0c.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/f2eGRE1.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rPnoRKn.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PvA9xdo.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/cY3S0JC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/z1cdk88.jpg
No more headlights, locking, wiper problems. Cleaning the pcb with a toothbrush and petrol also helps get rid of any previous water damage etc, before putting it in the oven. If you are interested in the process here is a video of how to do it. I've even repaired laptops using this method
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aK7RZjAC-qE
The following 1 user says Thank You to Kokain for this post:1 user says Thank You to Kokain for this post
• ron
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Oven method saved me also. 10 thing out of 15 I have saved
like that. If baking first time doesn't help try another time
with slightly higher temp. 205 C or 210 C
As a mark that temp is correct put 0.5 cm peace of solder wire
on the AL foil also. When that peace of solder gets "liquid" after 5-9min
wait 60 sec more and take out the peace from the oven.
Also there are a lot of tuts for Arduino controlled oven heater/re-flower
Best regards,
brajomobil
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Kokain, remind me never to buy a used car from you.
The following 1 user says Thank You to Col for this post:1 user says Thank You to Col for this post
• brajomobil
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12-01-2017, 11:08 PM
(06-01-2017, 04:35 PM)Kokain Wrote: I unhooked his BSI module, I removed the casing, didn't bother detaching the boards from one another, and just shoved it in the oven at 200deg gas mark 6 for total of 5-7min....
Cleaning the pcb with a toothbrush and petrol also helps get rid of any previous water damage etc, before putting it in the oven....
You could at least use brake cleaner
(09-01-2017, 04:36 PM)Col Wrote: Kokain, remind me never to buy a used car from you.
I would be more worried if he asked me round for a petrol flavoured meal
.
My vehicle .... 2006 (m59) Berlingo Multispace Desire - 1.6 HDI 92
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Who wants to see some ghetto hacks on the wheel brake cylinder drums? Manual says to remove the shoes but a correct length bolt or piece of cut wood jammed between the shoes can save you hours of hassle. It's a 2 man job, one to spread the shoes and the other to insert the piece, but if you are ghetto legend like myself you shaped it perfectly so you can use leverage to get it in by yourself.
https://i.imgur.com/tjLFhyB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EtBDQ74.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ck9hUHj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Iv20KFq.jpg
Bonus tip: If your pipe is turning with the nut, stop, it will snap the lines. Push the cylinder out and now rotate the cylinder itself. I've heard heat and insta cooldown will release it but haven't tried it.
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My cheap 3 pound sun visor modification
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05-06-2020, 08:53 AM
(This post was last modified: 17-05-2023, 04:06 AM by Sol.)
So last year I had to scrap the front subframe because the nut build inside holding the wishbone came undone (spinning) after taking the arm off to check up on something. And it really is a wonderful engineering scam, my hat off to those boys. You can't get a tool inside to hold the nut so you can tighten the bolt. I've already noticed other people suffering from similar issues now that the Berlingos started to age, so decided to make this post.
I should I have said I almost scrapped the subframe, but after a lot of thinking I figured the best method to fix it. So the challenge was actually to align the nut, make sure bolt goes straight, and simply weld the nut to the subframe, instead of that tin of metal that is hanging on. Picture is a little bit hard to tell from but it's better than nothing:
https://i.imgur.com/MMPG6Td.jpg
No you can not get a MIG gun in there (at least you won't be able to see), it has to be with a stick welder and you gotta be careful not to weld something you don't want. There is just enough gap to achieve this. I guess I was also lucky the nuts were in good condition and spinning the bolt through got enough bite instead of struggling. I guess you could try adhesive methods like JB Weld, but knowing my experience with these overpriced epoxies...
Its YouTube DIY glue gun 101 projects all over again to put it simply
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16-01-2021, 03:09 PM
(This post was last modified: 17-01-2021, 06:49 AM by Kokain.)
It's common for M59's the clutch engagement to be high. It's been bugging me ever since especially when I'm trying to heel and toe and still miss match revs because I didn't drop on time. So of course I came with a ghetto mod solution. I was shocked to find out the pedals aren't made of plastic like most girls these days. So I busted out my welder and tadaaa
https://i.imgur.com/Zbh6PNk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Rs1qxkW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fBZaCJI.jpg
I was pleased the pedal came out easily because there is no way you can weld in such tight space. It's held by 2 bolts, one goes all the way through. Secret is to press the clutch, open the bonnet and use anything to keep both forks stay together (vice grip, belt, strong rubber band..etc)
https://i.imgur.com/IAtlGyJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Qs0FnJ2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/klTxdXi.jpg
It actually made a huge difference to the way I can quick shift and not having to guesstimate the travel each time. Use common sense when setting up something like this so it's not right at the biting point and ruin your thrust bearing. A nice free mod using some scrap metal. Can you believe they actually try to sell stuff like clutch stoppers for triple digits "because race car"
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You know your car is getting old when the gear knob starts cracking up and the replacement you find suffers the same fate 2 years late. I got a hold of couple chinese ones to experiment but the disappointment set when I realized the plastic is as hard as JB weld.
https://imgur.com/a/rJsO2jq
https://imgur.com/a/u4DysNl
https://imgur.com/a/nyK63U0
https://imgur.com/a/87ovYk0
And I thought the OEM was hard, turns out it's balanced between grip and years of good service. So here is a little ghetto hack using a 50mm heat shrink (1.20gbp per meter), which you can stack on top depending on how soft you want it. I've only used 1 layer. It's quick, it's easy, it saves you money and no need for hercules arms removing the gear knob without breaking your rear view mirror.
https://imgur.com/a/YHyFfDF
https://imgur.com/a/KGy30k0
https://imgur.com/a/yqYgMYN
Grip tape or bicycle inner tube is also a good alternative that will require some glue
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