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Finally happened-turbo failure
Well it happened to me. On the way back from our hols the turbo failed. On looking at engine No4 injector is covered in black glaze so this the likley perpetuator? Not sure what opinion here is but the recommendation is engine replacement as the best guarantee against further failure. Quoted about £4.7k all in for Cit turbo and recon engine fitting etc! What's an 07 Desire worth engineless I wonder? Not sure what to do for best. Anyone else gone down engine replacement route?
Why are you needing a new engine ? Did it seize !
Citroen & Ford experts reckon the engine cannot be flushed/cleaned sufficiently to guarantee future life of the turbo.
What happened, Did it run oil it's own oil and seize or is it just smoking like a pig. Unless its done damage to the engine I would just clean out all the pipe work for the turbo etc and get a replacement turbo and see how it runs.

I would be looking on ebay for a good second hand engine out of a breaker.
(18-06-2013, 05:52 PM)602cc Wrote:  Citroen & Ford experts reckon the engine cannot be flushed/cleaned sufficiently to guarantee future life of the turbo.

Well I have fitted over 60 turbos to these engines and never had one back, so I think I am qualified to comment, must be very badly fouled up if hat is the case .
[-] The following 2 users say Thank You to Lighty for this post:
  • addo, ron
Bad Luck '602cc' - take a look at this page LINK and then make sure you follow the link half way down for the full case study.

I think at this stage it would be a bit OTT to put in a new engine. I would;
Presuming it will still tick over at up to 1500 rpm with knackered turbo.
Fix the injector first
Drop the sump and clean it out.
refit with new oil and filter.
Put in some engine flush and let it run for something bonkers like 12 hours, then drop the sump clean it all out.
Then follow the instructions in the link I give you above.

I have no idea if the above would guarantee any long term fix, but that's what I would do before binning my van off.

Curious which is No.4 injector, the one on the left or right when viewed from the front?

And anybody not knowing what to look or listen for with the injectors - take a look at this YouTube video
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to Noel Brig for this post:
  • addo
Thanks all. I've seen that APi link, I would definitely adhere to their recommendations. Regarding the fault, the turbo just started making howling noise then engine caution illuminated. The impeller is worn and there's loads of play. Oil level fine throughout but feels 'dry'.
I just read a lot of post where people have supposedly flushed and replaced feed pipes etc but still have problems. Regarding a good 2nd hand engine, I don't think you could quantify such a thing with these DV6 problems unless you stripped it prior to fit.
No4 injector is the furthest right looking back under the bonnet.
Well I have just read the Api list of things that must be done, to ensure that turbo failure does not re occur.
What seems to be the obvious cause to me apart from poor maintenance , and/or owner apathy to servicing schedules, is that EGR is one of the main issues with these engines. I have a C3 1.4 HDI, and this has done 300, 000 miles, just clicked over last week, and this is on its origional turbo.I believe this is mainly due to the blanking off of the EGR at about 50000 miles. The engine is as clean as a whistle inside.
Those horrible pics of the inlet manifold are due to pollution by the EGR and nothing else.
When we change a turbo on a 1.6 hdi, we remove the sump and check for all the issues pointed out, but in most cases the oil feed pipe will be blocked solid by the little strainer gauze at the engine block end.
It seems bizarre to me that this gauze is fitted at all, as it would take just a few fragments to block it up, and they are always blocked!
We simply remove this gauze, and refit the pipe (after a careful clean), and this does the trick.
Now maybe a few engineers will tell me this is not acceptable, but I can assure you it works for me, my theory being that some dirty oil is better than no oil.
I assume this is why we are being directed to replace all the banjo bolts at every service. If your car has a dpf this is going to be very expensive as the lower fitting cannot be removed with the dpf in place.
We have found that if the engine is cleaned well with the sump off, all injectors sealed properly, and the inlet manifold steam cleaned out, banjo gauze removed, problem is solved so long as the oil is changed regularly and with a good quality full synthetic.
The vehicles with a dpf are more affected, as the extra heat build up from this getting blocked just exaggerates the problem. In an ideal world, block off the EGR valve, delete the DPF, and the car will be all the better for it.
Just as a side note, my local factors approached me regarding how many repeat failures I had suffered with these turbos ? My answer was none, they admitted to withdrawing the unit from sale, as within 1 month, they had received 29 returned units out of 50 sold Sad, so that is a lot of garages not reading the instructions about reasons for failures.
[-] The following 4 users say Thank You to Lighty for this post:
  • addo, daviddb, Ol'Jeffers, ron
That makes me feel better, I reckon I'll go down this route. Didn't think mine has a DPF and blocking the EGR valve makes sense. I've alway service at 10k (except once when it went to 12.5k) and used Quartz 9000 or Ineo ECS. Wish I'd followed my instinct had dropped oil at 6k has I always have. First modern car and I believed the hype...
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to 602cc for this post:
  • addo
Easy to see if you have a DPF. If the front down pipe has no separable flange at the base of the large section, then it's just a cat.

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