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rear sliding door central locking system
#1
I have a 2004 2.0HDI Lingo and one of the rear door central locking actuators has stopped working. Is this common, can I get them or do I have to buy the whole rear door mechanism. Any thought/advice gratefully received
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#2
From what I have seen it seems quite a common fault but you can get the locking mechanism separate.

Try some wd40 first though.
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#3
(22-09-2013, 04:59 PM)cravena Wrote:  I have a 2004 2.0HDI Lingo and one of the rear door central locking actuators has stopped working. Is this common, can I get them or do I have to buy the whole rear door mechanism. Any thought/advice gratefully received

Could it be the contacts on the sliding door? You can test this by applying 12 volts to the door contacts. The contacts are on the forward facing surface of the door and are quite obvious. You need about 5 amps at 12 volts. Reversing the polarity will lock or unlock the mechanism. Worth a try, but do not apply the 12 v to the fixed contacts that the door contacts make contact with. I assume the other sliding door locks ok, indicating that the BSI is working normally.
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#4
(22-09-2013, 08:44 PM)mikeB Wrote:  
(22-09-2013, 04:59 PM)cravena Wrote:  I have a 2004 2.0HDI Lingo and one of the rear door central locking actuators has stopped working. Is this common, can I get them or do I have to buy the whole rear door mechanism. Any thought/advice gratefully received

Could it be the contacts on the sliding door? You can test this by applying 12 volts to the door contacts. The contacts are on the forward facing surface of the door and are quite obvious. You need about 5 amps at 12 volts. Reversing the polarity will lock or unlock the mechanism. Worth a try, but do not apply the 12 v to the fixed contacts that the door contacts make contact with. I assume the other sliding door locks ok, indicating that the BSI is working normally.

The mechanism is fine, it appears to be the solenoid/actuator which has given up the ghost

(22-09-2013, 06:56 PM)polar Wrote:  From what I have seen it seems quite a common fault but you can get the locking mechanism separate.

Try some wd40 first though.

The mechanism seems fine, I think the actuator is up the swanny as I seem to get a voltage on connector but it is too quick for my multimeter. I will try cleaning the contacts though. As for buying the bits does anyone have a clue what it is called or if I can get just the actuator/how it is removed from mechanism
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