Battery goes flat after 2 or 3 days

[gwells]

2006 1.9D Mk2 White Van. Last June the battery was flat a couple of times after I had left it for 3 days. It had a new alternator so I guessed it was time to renew the battery. Then in August it was flat after being left for 3 days while we were camping. RAC tested battery and alternator all OK. It happened again in September after being left in its garage over the weekend. Now I disconnect it every night and think one day I will find out what is draining it. All original equipment, interior lights turned off, no phone charger etc. So any Berlingo experts seen this and know exactly where to look? thanks

[ron]

I would put a amp meter between disconnected live terminal & battery & remove fuses 1 at a time until the reading is lowest(there will be a small drain for clock etc).alut:

[addo]

You may have an alternator problem.

Easiest (joke!) test is to disconnect the alternator when the car is to be stood for a few days. If the battery holds charge then the AA were wrong.

[obdtech]

Make sure battery is fully charged on a decent smart charger then tested.
If its low on charge, starting is marginal/no reserve.
If a battery goes flat it needs charging fully with a charger.
Test drain with amp meter.

[ron]

I charge my battery every month for 24hrs.Never had a battery problem/new battery.:thumbsup:

[obdtech]

Good practice Ron , but only if the charger is decent i.e. 'smart', if its an old school transformer unregulated type one it can over 'cook' the battery. Treat yourself.....£15 will buy you a decent cheap one from lidl this week on offer. These things will cost you zero in reality, because of what they save you. I'd recommend to everyone, as a discharged battery (below 12.4v)is a dying battery(sulphation starting) to charge there battery on a regular basis. I do it on all services that come into the workshop, i think about 80% are low and need charging. Considering it's the biggest cause of breakdown in the u.k. its a worthwhile 'proper service' feature. None of the other garages near me even test or think of doing this :brickwall: (they haven't the gear/interest/knowledge). The alternator is not designed to charge a flat battery, it must be a charger.
Modern efficient vehicles are a victim of there own reliability, and people do less to them, only if they have to. Maintenance is the key

[ron]

My thoughts precisely.:thumbsup:

[chrisbis]

Hi chaps.
I have just bought a Berlingo Van Mk2 04 plate, and the battery is run down (I won't use the word flat, as that is reserved for tyres and place of dwelling! lol)
I do not know (at this time) what the radio code is, and i wondered if I can charge the battery whilst still connected to the van, removing the cells caps for venting, and therefore avoid the coding issue on the radio.
I also have a strange noise that comes from the behind the steering wheel/fuse box area, like a solenoid whacking back and forth, after I open any door.
Is this a door central locking sol opening & closing because its faulty, of something else?
The back door lock is seized and I have disconnected the link connector to the door mechanism/actuator, but I wonder whether I need put a temp link in the loom/connector to show the computer that the door is shut?
Maybe its one of the other doors actuators that is faulty?
The noise happens every time I open one of the two doors (front)
Central locking will not close at this time.

The battery post above was most helpful...thanx.

[brodfather11]

You can charge the battery in situ, don't need to go removing the cell caps for venting as it will be a sealed for life one. They can be removed but as the smart charger will not allow the battery to start fuming or overheating there's no need.

It may be a broken wire in the door jambs that is causing the locks to go awry.

[obdtech]

The Noise will prob be the BSI having a hissy fit as there is not enough system voltage for it to work correctly.
Suspect the battery will be sulphated if its been left for any time in a Low State of Charge (flat battery syndrome). Needs charging fully on a smart charger(still connected is fine) and then testing on a Midtronics capacitance electronic tester (or silimar pro kit that costs 500 quids :-( but thats why real pros test and not just guess)
I'd recommend the ring smart chargers for best performance for cost. lidl/aldi ones are good cheap ones.

p.s. radio might be VIN coded from bsi, so might be ok. Just wake the BSI up correctly if you have to play with battery connections.