Advice with handbrake gearlever consule removal please.

[Sierra Charlie]

Just wondering if anyone has attempted to remove the handbrake and gearlever consule from their van.

The cigarette lighter socket on mine is all dirty and rusty ( the 12v socket with the cap over is working fine and is presently home to my dash cam plug ), I would like to remove it and install a second 12v socket suitable for sat nav etc. There is also a strange loose wire dangling down beside the consule leading into the rear of the van but not attached to anything in the back of the van, so this needs removing.

I have removed one screw from the front of the consule just in front of the gearlever on the upright section but the two either side of the handbrake are all gummed up, dirty and rusty. I need to clean out and access them but the handbrake section looks to be seperate to the front gearlever section.

Any tips or advice appreciated

[pluggit1]

Took mine out recently to put a feed to the back of the van for ancilliary gear.
As you say, they are two separate mouldings and they pull out pretty much together one all the screws are out. All but two screws are visible. The hidden ones are accessible by sliding both seats forward and taking out from the rear footwell. they are hidden from view by the seat and sit just to the side of the recliner knob.
Before assembling again, loop some string around the ciggy-lighter connector because it is so short on the loom that you will have to fish it out to connect it back up - and theres no slack. While you are doing this job, why not future-proof it and splice in a spare cable just in case you need other things powering up elsewhere.
Dont worry about spare connectors etc. Looms are standardised around many models and spec dictates whats used and whats not.

[Sierra Charlie]

Took mine out recently to put a feed to the back of the van for ancilliary gear.
As you say, they are two separate mouldings and they pull out pretty much together one all the screws are out. All but two screws are visible. The hidden ones are accessible by sliding both seats forward and taking out from the rear footwell. they are hidden from view by the seat and sit just to the side of the recliner knob.
Before assembling again, loop some string around the ciggy-lighter connector because it is so short on the loom that you will have to fish it out to connect it back up - and theres no slack. While you are doing this job, why not future-proof it and splice in a spare cable just in case you need other things powering up elsewhere.
Dont worry about spare connectors etc. Looms are standardised around many models and spec dictates whats used and whats not.

Many thanks pluggit1 for your help and assistance.

I did try this afternoon and managed to work out how to get it out. You have explained everything brilliantly so no need for me to repeat anything  

The worst part for me was getting the two screws out either side of the handbrake. Someone had obviously taken the consule out before to access the wiring to fit the strange loose wire. Not very good wiring practice and even worse putting the consule back with odd screws

Going to carry out your suggestion by splicing in an extra wire for a later date, excellent idea .

Some photos from this afternoons efforts.

[rupertbear]

Took mine out recently to put a feed to the back of the van for ancilliary gear.
As you say, they are two separate mouldings and they pull out pretty much together one all the screws are out. All but two screws are visible. The hidden ones are accessible by sliding both seats forward and taking out from the rear footwell. they are hidden from view by the seat and sit just to the side of the recliner knob.
Before assembling again, loop some string around the ciggy-lighter connector because it is so short on the loom that you will have to fish it out to connect it back up - and theres no slack. While you are doing this job, why not future-proof it and splice in a spare cable just in case you need other things powering up elsewhere.
Dont worry about spare connectors etc. Looms are standardised around many models and spec dictates whats used and whats not.

Many thanks pluggit1 for your help and assistance.

I did try this afternoon and managed to work out how to get it out. You have explained everything brilliantly so no need for me to repeat anything  

The worst part for me was getting the two screws out either side of the handbrake. Someone had obviously taken the consule out before to access the wiring to fit the strange loose wire. Not very good wiring practice and even worse putting the consule back with odd screws

Going to carry out your suggestion by splicing in an extra wire for a later date, excellent idea .

Some photos from this afternoons efforts.

I too have attempted today to install a (ignition switched) power feed from the cig lighter or aux socket on my 56 Partner. I am fitting aftermarket reversing sensors (don't ask why) and the instructions state that, on a Canbus vehicle, a power source additional to the reversing light feed is required.

No problems detaching the two parts of the console, I did it on my previous Berlingo - made even easier this time because whoever removed it before me hadn't bothered to replace most of the screws. Grrr.

However, the front section containing the two sockets will only lift about 3 or 4cm, constrained by the wiring to the back of the sockets. Equally, with the console in place I can prise out a socket but there is insufficient slack in the wire to enable me to do anything useful.

I hesitate to start yanking at the wires. Can anyone suggest:

Why is mine, apparently, different?

A solution to accessing the back of the sockets?

An alternative, accessible, low current, power pickup point?


TIA

[rupertbear]

Took mine out recently to put a feed to the back of the van for ancilliary gear.
As you say, they are two separate mouldings and they pull out pretty much together one all the screws are out. All but two screws are visible. The hidden ones are accessible by sliding both seats forward and taking out from the rear footwell. they are hidden from view by the seat and sit just to the side of the recliner knob.
Before assembling again, loop some string around the ciggy-lighter connector because it is so short on the loom that you will have to fish it out to connect it back up - and theres no slack. While you are doing this job, why not future-proof it and splice in a spare cable just in case you need other things powering up elsewhere.
Dont worry about spare connectors etc. Looms are standardised around many models and spec dictates whats used and whats not.

Many thanks pluggit1 for your help and assistance.

I did try this afternoon and managed to work out how to get it out. You have explained everything brilliantly so no need for me to repeat anything  

The worst part for me was getting the two screws out either side of the handbrake. Someone had obviously taken the consule out before to access the wiring to fit the strange loose wire. Not very good wiring practice and even worse putting the consule back with odd screws

Going to carry out your suggestion by splicing in an extra wire for a later date, excellent idea .

Some photos from this afternoons efforts.

I too have attempted today to install a (ignition switched) power feed from the cig lighter or aux socket on my 56 Partner. I am fitting aftermarket reversing sensors (don't ask why) and the instructions state that, on a Canbus vehicle, a power source additional to the reversing light feed is required.

No problems detaching the two parts of the console, I did it on my previous Berlingo - made even easier this time because whoever removed it before me hadn't bothered to replace most of the screws. Grrr.

However, the front section containing the two sockets will only lift about 3 or 4cm, constrained by the wiring to the back of the sockets. Equally, with the console in place I can prise out a socket but there is insufficient slack in the wire to enable me to do anything useful.

I hesitate to start yanking at the wires. Can anyone suggest:

Why is mine, apparently, different?

A solution to accessing the back of the sockets?

An alternative, accessible, low current, power pickup point?


TIA

Replying to my own post. I tapped into the supply to a rear courtesy light, sensors now working. Still mystified by the console on short wires.