Rear hub nut torque setting

[cancunia]

If the hub will turn, I doubt that the adjusters are going to help, for the moment at least. Some pen oil carefully applied through the bolt holes and the retaining screw holes plus a small amount of heat to the the front face of the drum to help it soak through and then left overnight may do some good. If you have the hub on the car, too much heat may affect the bearing grease, but some warmth will be enough & no more than the brakes would generate when working.
If it were me, I'd try some more, then take the hub off and buy a new torque wrench to put it back together rather than pay a (UK) garage at least £40 plus parts & VAT to do the same. Spanish garages may work differently of course.

[El Berlingo]

Hi cancunia,

The rain in Spain has stopped for the moment. I will try again taking note of your helpful comments. Problem here is that, unlike the U.K., tools are vey expensive. I can pick up a torque wrench for about £30 in the U.K. They are about €100 locally!

Cheers,

El Berlingo

[polar]

You will find a decent lip on the drum so even if the handbrake is off you still will not have clearance between the shoes and the lip. Taking the hub off will make no difference.

Hammer the sh1t out of the sides of the drums may do it but sometimes you will damage the shoes and fitting kit/adjusters removing the drums.

If they are really bad they will have to be cut off with a disk cutter - however i have never had to resort to this.

[cancunia]

Wow, hadn't realised that! Would the garage check you have the correct tightness for a small sum perhaps?

[Top drive]

blingos aint that bad for the drums compared to the old 306.

usually heat up the centre of hte drum with a map torch and stand well back before throwing some cold water over it shocks the system enough to split it from the centre hub.

note your Wheel cylinders are m12 fittings - not all that standard in the shops round here anyway so id order a few in as the chances are that youll find your wheel cylinders are weaping when you get in there and the m12 fitting will round off. . every berlingo/306/106 ive been in has - the change in how the car slows down after you change them is immense. it squats rather than nose dives like its in the 1980s !

[jj9]

If the hub will turn, I doubt that the adjusters are going to help...

If the drum is worn it will have a lip and they are very hard to get off over the shoes because the lip is in effect behind the shoes, so when you are pulling the drum off the shoes are holding it or jambing it, that's why you wind the adjusters off through one of the wheel bolt holes.

Of course if the adjusters haven't been greased up when the brakes were last done they may have seized, then you have to resort to violence or the grinder as polar said. 

As mentioned, the drum may have rusted to the face of the hub, bashing the face of the drum (where the wheel bolts go) usually gets them free, if that doesn't work you could try the heat & water method Top drive describes.


When it comes to fitting the new parts clean everything up and make sure the adjusters are nice & free, lube them up with anti seize grease. Put a couple of dabs of the anti seize on the backing plate where the brake shoes sit and also on the on the tangs of the shoes where they contact the wheel cylinder. 
Make sure to clean any rust off the face of the hub and apply a smear of anti seize to the face before fitting the drum.

A smear of anti seize on the two small screws that holds the drum in place makes sure they will come out easy next time.


As for torquing the rear hub nut, get a long bar and if you weigh 14.2 stones (200 lbs) stand 1 foot along the bar, if you're not as heavy as that use math to work out how far along the bar for a given weight. 

Or just do what most garages do, use a 2 foot bar and swing on it a bit   


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