Hi
The n/s drive shaft oil seal is weeping. Can anyone talk me through point me at a guide to removing the drive shaft and replacing the seal.
It's a Multispace on a 55 plate.
Would really appreciate a few pointers before I start rather going in blind and winging it.
Cheers

You need to remove the bottom ball joint from the wheel hub.

Yoy should then be able to pull the suspension strut outwards which will pull the drive shaft out of the gearbox.

Remove old seal with a removal tool or screw in a couple of self tappers into the outer edge of the seal and pull with pliers.

New seal is easy to drift back in, just use a socket big enough to sit on the out part of the seal, then tap it in.

Oil the seal a little then re insert the drive shaft into the gearbox and re assemble everything you took apart earlier.

Jobs a good un

As Hdi said. The drive shaft hub nuts are tight and need to be retorqued after.
As it's the near side one if you detatch the lower ball joint, track rod end and the drop link, you might be able to get the shaft out of the g/box without undoing the hub nut.


  drive shafts removal.pdf (Size: 171.25 KB / Downloads: 296)

alut:

Thanks Gents.
I will give it a try.

Don't foget to use something other than the drive/garage floor to catch the the gearbox oil:whistle::brickwall:

Looks like I've damaged the passenger side oil seal while removing the suspension strut :-(
The wheel hub tipped outwards when I was lining up the strut to get things back together and a load of oil came out. I pushed the hub back upright and thought the leak had stopped, but it seems that I've still got a minor leak. I'm surprised that the driveshaft came out so easily & thought there would be a circlip holding it in, but it seems not...

Is there any guidance other than above for replacing the oil seal?

Thanks

I would remove the hub, but beware the nut is extremely tight, you will need at least an half inch drive socket wrench, don't use a ratchet, it will definitely break, i used a piece of scaffold pole, about five foot long, over the socket wrench for greater leverage, take extra care when the nut comes undone they 'crack' , meaning all of a sudden they're loose. With the hub out of the way you have a lot more room to work in, & fitting a new oil seal a lot easier, lightly oil the outer edge & you should be able to push in with your fingers a little way, then carefully tap home with a plasti head hammer or a socket which fits the hard part of the seal, take your time when reassembling & you should use new nuts & bolts .

(09-05-2017, 03:49 PM)THE BADGE Wrote:  I would remove the hub, but beware the nut is extremely tight, you will need at least an half inch drive socket wrench, don't use a ratchet, it will definitely break, i used a piece of scaffold pole, about  five foot long, over the socket wrench for greater leverage, take extra care when the nut comes undone they 'crack' , meaning all of a sudden they're loose. With the hub out of the way you have a lot more room to work in, & fitting a new oil seal a lot easier, lightly oil the outer edge & you should be able to push in with your fingers a little way, then carefully tap home with a plastic head hammer or a socket which fits the hard part of the seal, take your time when reassembling & you should use new nuts & bolts .

Interesting stuff. I saw a picture in an earlier thread on the subject of strut changes that showed the hub and strut taken out as one piece. I saw the wisdom in that approach but didn't expect the problem with the driveshaft so did the usual and pushed the hub down. The last car I did this on was a Fiat Punto, by comparison the struts & springs on that were a piece of cake.  I have 1/2" sockets and some long bars which I used for doing up the head nuts on my old Petter diesels.
Presumably you loosened the driveshaft nut while the wheel was still on and used the weight of the car to keep it still?

(09-05-2017, 01:48 PM)cancunia Wrote:  ... Is there any guidance other than above for replacing the oil seal?

Thanks

The car in the video link below is a Peugeot 307 but the procedure will be the same on yours.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvEj8tcfCeA


.

Hi Cancunia,
yes, sorry I forgot to mention, the wheels must be on the ground, even chock them for more grip, I also applied heat to the Hub Nut WITH A BLOWTORCH, hope you have some luck trying this.