I noticed some rust on the wing of my bingo the other day. It had actually eaten right through where the wing meets the door and the wheel arch had gone bubbly. The bloody car is less than 10 years old too! Anyway I cleaned it off, applied Rusteater and then coated it with Hammerite. Within 24 hours the rust was showing through the paint. So I got the wire brush on the anglegrinder out and took it back to bare metal, coated it with Rust eater and then primed. Guess what 24 hours later rust showing through again.

So does anyone have a good method of beating the dreaded tin worm?

(18-04-2013, 09:23 AM)crickleymal Wrote:  I noticed some rust on the wing of my bingo the other day. It had actually eaten right through where the wing meets the door and the wheel arch had gone bubbly. The bloody car is less than 10 years old too! Anyway I cleaned it off, applied Rusteater and then coated it with Hammerite. Within 24 hours the rust was showing through the paint. So I got the wire brush on the anglegrinder out and took it back to bare metal, coated it with Rust eater and then primed. Guess what 24 hours later rust showing through again.

So does anyone have a good method of beating the dreaded tin worm?

Replacement wing been put on at sometime?

Is there not a 12 year anti perforation warranty with the Berlingo?

The only real solution I've found is to replace it with good metal. A friend's Ford Ka just failed MOT and went to the scrapyard due to terminal rot on the floor and sills, same age as your Berlingo so don't think it's just a Citroen problem. You only get warranty on cars that have been back to the dealer to have their proofing checked and maintained regularly, I don't know if Citroen offer this facility. Here it is. you would have had to have it from new and pay for inspections and maintenance.

Trouble is I bought this second hand with no proof of original purchase or anything about an anticorrosion warranty. I might just slap a bit of fibreglass on it as I have a load of tape left over from molishing a canoe.

Sounds like there is a really active rust farm happening in there - possibly a buildup of road salt. To fix without welding: Open it up with cold cutting (recipro saw or air hacksaw) then flush out with water and a salt neutraliser (sold at 4×4 shops, then chemically treat as normal rust. Back prime it and pull up a patch formed from zinc annealed steel (used in the car restoration industry for panel sections) and bonded in with polyurethane windscreen sealant. High zinc primer and you're good to fill/blend it.

(18-04-2013, 01:06 PM)addo Wrote:  ...................... a salt neutraliser ........... (sold at 4×4 shops.................

Ha!

Is there really people who would by such a thing?

Yes, I don't believe it's "huile de serpent" either.

(18-04-2013, 08:11 PM)addo Wrote:  Yes, I don't believe it's "huile de serpent" either.

It may not be 'huile de serpent', however there is no better way to remove salt than simply using 'eau'!
Available free from most good clouds.

My understanding of the proprietary "salt neutralisers" is that their contents include dilute sulfamic acid to break up the aqueous salt molecules, possibly other (active) ingredients also - such things as faux cherry smell are obviously frivolous.

Where I can see their benefit, is when corrosion has begun, and there are characteristic invisibly deep pittings of erosion in the ferrous substrate. The reaction driven by presence of this acid is more likely to get deeper into the affected metal, faster, than washing with potable water - especially in areas where agitation or direct pressure spraying is not feasible.