Coolant system overhaul

[notsofast]

Thanks. It's raining today so work postponed.

This morning I was clearing out the packaging of the new rad and I found an o-ring at the bottom - I'm guessing it must be for the seal at the bottom outlet. When I fitted the new rad yesterday I just kept the old o-ring in place, as it didn't look in bad condition and I had had great difficulty getting hold of a replacement. However, it's obviously 20-odd years old and presumably will have moulded to the previous rad connector. Although I'm groaning to myself at the thought, I'm guessing I really ought to re-fit the rad with the new o-ring, otherwise I'm asuming there's a real risk it'll leak when I re-fill?

[oilyrag]

Most folk would recommend a new seal. A wipe over with Vaseline often helps them fit/seal more readily. A leak might cost you your new coolant.

[notsofast]

Thanks oilyrag. Yeah, I knew as I typed my previous post that I'd have to refit the new rad.  I'm a bit of a perfectionist and always want to do a job the right way.  Sods law is that that connection was the hardest one to fit and I was chuffed when I'd done it the first time. Well, on the positive side I do feel I've learned a lot over the past few days. One step backwards but then two steps forwards....

[oilyrag]

That's good - with me it's the other way round.

[Kieron G]

I've been having a pain with radiator bottom hose on 1.8 petrol after fitting new radiator. Metal end of bottom hose pushes in with O ring and held with spring type clip. Keeps popping out when system gets hot and pressurised. Have ordered a new hose as the metal end is a bit corroded, difficult to work on as hose seems to be routed through the chassis rail.
Re the changing of the matrix. I did on an early M49 Xud diesel van, It was a real pain but not really technical. The steering wheel and assembly laid down on drivers seat all still attached. From what i remember it was mainly removing plastic clips, ventilation pipes and screws to get the dash out.

[notsofast]

I've disconnected the new rad again this morning and this is the end of the bottom hose - it's also a bit corroded. Don't know if I can do much with it - I'm wondering if sanding off some of the corrosion would leave even less for the clip to hold onto?

   

When I popped the rad out again, one of the rad retaining clips at the top snapped off at the end. Local stockists say they can't get them so I guess it's a local Citroen specialist or breaker's yard?

[oilyrag]

Just clean it up and if you have any corrosion inhibitor use that.

[notsofast]

Progress report. Everything is now connected back up. Hardest part was the heater-bypass loop - I decided it was too long and so disconnected it and cut a bit off, then had to reconnect, and had the same problem as last time trying to get the hose down over the connection. However it is now less kinked.

I've filled it with coolant, but setting up a header tank and starting the engine will have to wait til the next session. If when it gets hot the bottom hose pops off the new rad like it did for Kieron G, I think I'll take it to a garage as I can't keep doing this forever - lots of gardening needing doing!

[notsofast]

I set up a header tank and started the engine today, and ran it on a variable throttle input until the temp needle got just below halfway. Apart from the coolant level dropping very slightly on firing up, nothing else of note happened - no burping of air or rising of fluid into the header tank.  Is this good or have I done something incorrectly? All seals looked good and dry throughout.

P.S. Basic question: how do I identify and adjust the throttle within the engine bay, so I don't have to keep going in the cabin and using the foot pedal?

[oilyrag]

You may have got very lucky with the bleeding, but possibly taking the heater out of circulation helps! The test will be a few miles on the road - but hopefully all will be well. The throttle can be operated from the engine bay - difficult to describe, but you're looking for a 'quadrant' - a flat plastic plate that has a groove in it for the (shiny) throttle cable. The simple way to find it is, with engine off, put someone in the driving seat and get them to press the throttle and watch out what moves - top area of engine. left of centre.