Crankshaft locking pin location

[frostyberlingo]

The hole is behind the oil filter and down to the right.

You can see it at 1:40 in the video below....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NoWbaiEz8zs


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That's great thanks! exactly where I thought it was but for the life of me I just can't see it! I'll have another look later think the suns been blinding me

Found it thanks!

[frostyberlingo]

The hole is behind the oil filter and down to the right.

You can see it at 1:40 in the video below....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NoWbaiEz8zs


.

That's great thanks! exactly where I thought it was but for the life of me I just can't see it! I'll have another look later think the suns been blinding me

You need to be very careful here.  I expected the hole to line up with another hole in the flywheel so that you could lock it up.  In fact it just gives you access to the gear ring on the clutch housing.  You need to take the plastic cover off the top of the clutch bell housing to expose the ring and then you will see a timing mark on the gear ring.  See enclosed pic of the cover.

I had a problem last year where the car would not start.  Eventually whn I took the head off I saw some kiss marks on the pistons that told me the timing was out.  The problem was the cam belt drive pulley on the crankshaft has a woodruff key that had sheared and the pulley had rotated and picked up again so that the timing was a few degrees out.  That led to having to retime the engine,  locking the camshafts in position and locking the crank.  It was then I had problems. I found the hole and inserted a locking pin and thought all was OK. New cam belt etc replace alll parts and try to start NOTHING.  So then look clser at the timing and discovered the plastic cover on the gear ring and ONE timing mark.  Readjusted all again to the mark and BINGO success. At least two months of work to find the problem.

Thanks for this info its much appreciated! I put the pin into the crank and said to myself "how do I know its locked in place?" so I turned the crank and surprise surprise it hadn't locked anything (I didn't use any force) and once removing the harmonic balancer a previous mechanic had tippexed timing marks on the crank which when the cam is pinned it doesn't line up, its close but not close enough i think. So then I wasn't sure if the timing was out already and the marks are correct or the marks are incorrect. So this info is invaluable to me atm. Parts haven't arrived yet so will have a look tomorrow. Thanks again!

[frostyberlingo]

frostyberlingo pid='122577' dateline='1588017335']

The hole is behind the oil filter and down to the right.

You can see it at 1:40 in the video below....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NoWbaiEz8zs


.

That's great thanks! exactly where I thought it was but for the life of me I just can't see it! I'll have another look later think the suns been blinding me

You need to be very careful here.  I expected the hole to line up with another hole in the flywheel so that you could lock it up.  In fact it just gives you access to the gear ring on the clutch housing.  You need to take the plastic cover off the top of the clutch bell housing to expose the ring and then you will see a timing mark on the gear ring.  See enclosed pic of the cover.

I had a problem last year where the car would not start.  Eventually whn I took the head off I saw some kiss marks on the pistons that told me the timing was out.  The problem was the cam belt drive pulley on the crankshaft has a woodruff key that had sheared and the pulley had rotated and picked up again so that the timing was a few degrees out.  That led to having to retime the engine,  locking the camshafts in position and locking the crank.  It was then I had problems. I found the hole and inserted a locking pin and thought all was OK. New cam belt etc replace alll parts and try to start NOTHING.  So then look clser at the timing and discovered the plastic cover on the gear ring and ONE timing mark.  Readjusted all again to the mark and BINGO success. At least two months of work to find the problem.

Thanks for this info its much appreciated! I put the pin into the crank and said to myself "how do I know its locked in place?" so I turned the crank and surprise surprise it hadn't locked anything (I didn't use any force) and once removing the harmonic balancer a previous mechanic had tippexed timing marks on the crank which when the cam is pinned it doesn't line up, its close but not close enough i think. So then I wasn't sure if the timing was out already and the marks are correct or the marks are incorrect. So this info is invaluable to me atm. Parts haven't arrived yet so will have a look tomorrow. Thanks again!

 I can't see any timing marks?

[jj9]

. . . I put the pin into the crank and said to myself "how do I know its locked in place?" so I turned the crank and surprise surprise it hadn't locked anything (I didn't use any force). . .

There will be a hole in the flywheel for the pin to engage with, you're just not finding it.

You don't just push the pin through the hole in the engine block and that's it, you have to slightly move the flywheel and "feel" the pin engage.

Try this.... 
(you may need a helper to turn the engine for you but you could probably turn the engine yourself by using the teeth on the flywheel and a screwdriver as a lever)  

Turn the engine over until the hole in the camshaft that you pin at the 2 o'clock position is at 12 o'clock.

Insert the pin to lock the flywheel, and hold it pushed against the flywheel (best if the end of this pin has a chamfered / rounded end).

Very slowly turn the engine forward whilst you hold the pin against the flywheel and "feel" for the hole the pin engages with, you should "feel" the pin engage with the hole in the flywheel.

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[ffrenchie]

Flywheels usually lock on the starter ring teeth

[Gadgetman]

I've done this a couple of times, and I use a rod that's slightly undersized on the last 10mm and also has a rounded tip.
It will only fit in one spot for the entire rotation.

The reason for this is that the belts does not have timing marks to correspond with the pulleys, so you need some other positive ID of the correct positioning in order to fit the belt.
and with the TU3 model engine being an 'interference' engine(pistons and valve share the same space, just not at the same time) you REALLY want the ability to lock the parts into known safe positions before reassembly. It's not good to have one cylinder being at TDC when you bolt down a head where one of he valves for that cylinder is fully open.
You also want the ability to 'lock crankshaft, unbolt head, unlock crankshaft and rotate, then relock in safe position' (This is handy when swapping cylinder liners)