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First oil change at 6k instead of 12k miles?
#11
(04-07-2013, 07:36 AM)onthefence Wrote:  ''''''''''''''''
3) Can I use an independent instead of a main dealer without voiding the warranty?

You do NOT have to use a dealer or independent garage for ANY services!

As long as:
Items used are recommended by the manufacture.
Items are replaced at or before the recommended interval.
Any work done is in accordance with manufacturer procedure.
Any work is done by a competent person.

Proof of above may be required for a warranty claim.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to MudFT for this post:
  • onthefence
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#12
good enough
main problem seems to be with diesel turbo's
turbo failure plus swarf collected in vacuum pump gauze
seems to instantly mean engine replacement
as far as Citroen are concerned anyway :-(
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#13
A couple of points I'd like to make about oil change...

1. Never use one of those pumps that is used to suck up the oil through the hole for the dipstick. You won't get all of it out. Trust me on that. And you REALLY want to get rid of the heaviest sludge at the bottom of the sump.
2. The plug on some models has a built-in magnet. (If it doesn't, get a third-party one that has one.) This is a very good 'early warning' for your engine. Check and clean it thoroughly.
3. There's a gasket on the plug, usually made of copper. Get a new one!
4. Do not fall for the temptation to use white spirit or other solvents to clean the area where the oil filter fits against the engine. Yu don't want that sh!t getting into the oil.
5. When fitting the oil filter, smear some oil on the rubber seal first, and tighten it with your hands only. Do NOT fall for the temptation to use a tool to 'tighten it up a bit'. You want to be able to get it off again later.
(I spent at least 2 hours with chisel and hacksaw to get rid of an old filter on my replacement engine... What a mess!)

Just saying...
[-] The following 3 users say Thank You to Gadgetman for this post:
  • CandR, fikse, onthefence
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#14
Good points mate
they tend not to have magnets on sump plugs now
washer should always be changed
latest engines tend to have paper filters and o rings
but stick to main rule of draining oil warm but not too hot
bearing in mind a fully hot engine once drained will contract and wear on first restart and we want these engines to run forever don't we?
at least I do :-)
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#15
No magnets?

Get a plug that does have it. It's too darn useful.

And yeah, we want them to run forever. Or at least long enough to beat that bl**y Volvo!
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#16
Volvo has no style though
Citroen does :-)
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#17
Anyone got an idea of the sump plug thread size on a 1.6hdi to save me going out and getting covered in oil.
Are we there yet????? Huh
Ex 1.6hdi van now 3 seater 1.4 multispace
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#18
Thanks to everybody who replied to the thread! I will go ahead and have the oil changed.

Cheers
OTF
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#19
(06-07-2013, 07:54 AM)onthefence Wrote:  Thanks to everybody who replied to the thread! I will go ahead and have the oil changed.

Cheers
OTF

Late entry - I moved my first service forward a couple of months simply to get the Oil and filter changed at 6K.
You cannot be too careful with the HDi
As I recall Oil filter sump plug washer and a pollen filter were around £80.

As long as you use the absolute correct variant of total quartz and a genuine filter with a new sump washer no-one will be the wiser if you do the job yourself.
You'll save yourself a packet and have the peace of mind that its been done properly.
It is on my to do list.
But not right at the top

2012 Hdi75 van
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#20
Haha, new sump washer, I've changed the oil on my van at least once every 10k mostly every 6k (I've done over 100k in it) and I'm still using the origional washer!
Somedays you're the pigeon, Somedays you're the statue.
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