BSI/CLOCKS ISSUES

[Tom_85]

Many apologies, this green connector is a main fuse feed from the engine bay fuse box. The black wire feeds the lighting stalks, and the brown feeds fuses 13,14,15 & 16 which leaves the grey which feeds a lot of other fuses. I'm presuming when this is separated nowt works front of house?
Have you checked all the fuses including the big main ones in the engine bay fuse box?

With ignition on check each side of these fuses (you should be able to probe the metal spots on top of them) with the neg probe to earth.
F5 in the engine bay fuse box (BM34).
F27,6,9 & 4 in the fuse box under the steering wheel (BH28).
You should get 12V on both sides of the fuses.
Let us know what you find. :thumbsup:

You sir are a diamond! I'll get on it and let you know how I get on.

[addo]

I'd say it's had an alarm and immobiliser spliced in. You need to find the hidden kill switch or stop relay.

[Tom_85]

Many apologies, this green connector is a main fuse feed from the engine bay fuse box. The black wire feeds the lighting stalks, and the brown feeds fuses 13,14,15 & 16 which leaves the grey which feeds a lot of other fuses. I'm presuming when this is separated nowt works front of house?
Have you checked all the fuses including the big main ones in the engine bay fuse box?

With ignition on check each side of these fuses (you should be able to probe the metal spots on top of them) with the neg probe to earth.
F5 in the engine bay fuse box (BM34).
F27,6,9 & 4 in the fuse box under the steering wheel (BH28).
You should get 12V on both sides of the fuses.
Let us know what you find. :thumbsup:

Thanks Rustscrat I checked every fuse you mentioned and all the others I could find and found no problems with any of them :S I've since had the dash out to check all the wireing and the loom itself was fine....but I found every wire to the two plugs in the indicator stalk had been spliced into at some point?!

[Rustscrat]

I know you said you've checked the earths but just in case, check the 3 earths that are related to the clocks & Bsi, MC33, MC14 & MC38.
With your meter and ignition off, check between pins 7 (+) and
4 & 14 (-) for 12V on the 18 pin black connector at the back of the speedo. Next with battery disconnected, check the continuity of the two Comms lines which run from the Bsi to the speedo plug (852 & 851)
Unplug from both ends to do this. These should read the same resistance which should be approx 1 ohm each. Also check for shorts to earth on these.
Let us know what you find :thumbsup:

   

[Tom_85]

I know you said you've checked the earths but just in case, check the 3 earths that are related to the clocks & Bsi, MC33, MC14 & MC38.
With your meter and ignition off, check between pins 7 (+) and
4 & 14 (-) for 12V on the 18 pin black connector at the back of the speedo. Next with battery disconnected, check the continuity of the two Comms lines which run from the Bsi to the speedo plug (852 & 851)
Unplug from both ends to do this. These should read the same resistance which should be approx 1 ohm each. Also check for shorts to earth on these.
Let us know what you find :thumbsup:

MC38 I hadn't checked illyme: I found two earths in this location and look what I found.... more spliced wires!:brickwall: I'll check the pins and comms tomorrow after work, thank you Rustscrat

[Image: earth_zpsc8141b64.jpg]

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I'd say it's had an alarm and immobiliser spliced in. You need to find the hidden kill switch or stop relay.

Sorry addo somehow missed your post! I'm going to have the dash out again at the weekend incase I missed anything so i'll have another look then. Thanks

[Tom_85]

I know you said you've checked the earths but just in case, check the 3 earths that are related to the clocks & Bsi, MC33, MC14 & MC38.
With your meter and ignition off, check between pins 7 (+) and
4 & 14 (-) for 12V on the 18 pin black connector at the back of the speedo. Next with battery disconnected, check the continuity of the two Comms lines which run from the Bsi to the speedo plug (852 & 851)
Unplug from both ends to do this. These should read the same resistance which should be approx 1 ohm each. Also check for shorts to earth on these.
Let us know what you find :thumbsup:

Checked everything Rustscrat and all was fine...very strange. I think next thing to do is send the BSI off to be checked.

Would a Lexia help in my situation?

[Rustscrat]

Unfortunately it looks like your suspicions could be right.
To me it looks like the Bsi has been replaced or is faulty.
It looks like there are no Comms coming out of it.
Your heater fan is also linked to this Via a "engine on relay"
You say you have two keys, one with buttons on.
This could be the key for the replacement Bsi as in your van spec you do not have central locking.
Try this it's a bit of a long shot but it's worth a try.
Inside the button key there is a small transponder chip clipped inside, remove it and hold this around where you key goes into the ignition and and with other key turn on, see if any thing is different.
Lexia would help you in the way that it will tell you if the Vin No's match and maybe throw some fault codes up too. If your planning on keeping the van for a while it would probably worth getting one.
Let us know how you go on. :thumbsup:

[Tom_85]

Try this it's a bit of a long shot but it's worth a try.
Inside the button key there is a small transponder chip clipped inside, remove it and hold this around where you key goes into the ignition and and with other key turn on, see if any thing is different.
Lexia would help you in the way that it will tell you if the Vin No's match and maybe throw some fault codes up too. If your planning on keeping the van for a while it would probably worth getting one.
Let us know how you go on. :thumbsup:

Thank you tried that, no change. Do you have access to the part number of my original BSI? Ive googled the BSI part number I have fitted now and the only vehicle I can find its matched to is a 2.0hdi. I also found THIS which is off a 2.0

REF PSA:96 408 801 80
REF DAV: 11897
REF SYLEA: 140 291
REF VALEO: 730 039 11

I dont want to send this one off to find its completely the wrong bsi for my van although i'm not sure if it would matter or not.. I'm going to give BBA-reman a call tomorrow...

EDIT: Would THIS work?

[Rustscrat]

I can't tell you the Psa numbers but I've had a look at four 2000 DW8 models and they all have the same part No. for the Bsi. This is "6580 40" or "6580 RX" both these numbers are for the same unit. A quick search on ebay turned up this- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-PARTS-...2a2b7d477b

Too pricey for me but it tells us that the BSI you want has the coloured plugs. Have a read of the pdf which identifies the Bsi's.
It seems to me that there is not much configuration of these units apart from the Vin No. and if it has air con etc.
Have a browse at the BBA reman web site under citroen Bsi's and it describes the faults that you are getting. Would be worth getting a price off them. alut:

  Bsi indentification.pdf (Size: 285.26 KB / Downloads: 13)

[Tom_85]

So I sent my BSI to BBA-reman on Tuesday for repair which will cost £100 and £20 collection and delivery. I phoned them Friday as I hadn't heard anything and they told me I now need to send my clocks to which I replied I'd replaced them with a set from ebay as I thought at the time they were the problem. According to them it's not possible to do that and they will need the original instrument panel and then see if they can repair them too....

Is this true, I was under the impression the only problem with swapping clocks was the millage changing to the higher reading? I can see this costing me alot more then I'd hoped!