MK2 Modutop blower fan not working - any help appreciated

[Kokain]

Well I had 15min free time so I figured let's get the screw driver out
http://i.imgur.com/XJS4pSO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/5Xa7cdy.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sjlWtCG.jpg
So glad I got rid of the modular top. There is couple of stuff I can stand up right without any room problem and also things don't get jammed on the modutop when you insert them half way. I wish I did this earlier. Best of all my heater actually works, so it was probably a loose connection BlueSlug and you need to take it out to reseat the cables. Look how specious it is now
http://i.imgur.com/2p924tI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/YlVDzTS.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Vcw0Dv2.jpg
My plan is to get a normal "van" trey and I was thinking wouldn't be cool if I just install a net all way long to put stuff inside. Far better usage of space.
http://i.imgur.com/vsV6Hs9.jpg
Similar but I want finer net and to bolt it onto the existing holes. Make it look neater. My next ghetto fabrication project hehe

By the way, there is no way to remove the heater without dropping the modutop. Like I said it's very easy, pretty much 6-8 bolts, then you have to balance it on your head (very light) and disconnect the front main wire + 2 light wires, on the back just disconnect the heater wiring. The plugs are annoying and not easy to do with one hand, the front one is covered in foam that you need to strip before you can see it. Overall it's all plug and play and the main harness wiring just rests inside the modutop which does not need removing. it's all with plug and play on both ends

[bobflem]

Hii BlueSlug,
You can drop the rear of the modutop by removing the 4 bolts in each of the rear storage areas. If your carefull you can pull it down enough to get to the fan unit,undo i think x3 bolts that holds the fan unit in place. Without pulling the whole unit out drop it down enough to remove 2 phillips screws that holds the fan resister in, your see the wires going into it. It's at the back of the fan towards the rear of car, once the screws are removed you can pull the resister out ,at the bottom of it is a bullet shaped resister this is what stopped my fan working and the fan in the wife's peugeot partner to. I soldered a thick piece of copper wire from one end of the contact to the to the fat part of the resister (sorry i'm not a sparky it just looks like a resister)Best way to test it is to put a piece of wire between the 2 end contacts of the resister, the fan works fine on both cars now after the fix.
Hope this helps
Bob

[BlueSlug]

Thank you both very much Kokain and bobflem - great info and motivational reading :thumbsup:

It's just like waiting for a bus - they all come at the same time, so much info in one hit has made my day thank you.

@ kokain - I fancy a hammock in that roof space of yours now :lol: Do I detect a ghetto camper an in the midst of development? The already generous headroom seems colossal without that Modutop :eek:

@ bobflem - will I need to invest in a stubby Philips screwdriver before I jump feet first into dropping the rear end of my Modutop, or will I have enough room with a standard sized one?

[bobflem]

@ bobflem - will I need to invest in a stubby Philips screwdriver before I jump feet first into dropping the rear end of my Modutop, or will I have enough room with a standard sized one?


A stubby would be ideal , i did use a normal size screwdriver but it made hard work of it as it's a bit tight for space.

[BlueSlug]

OK, I have managed a fix on my Modutop blower fan at last - it was the thermal fuse on the resistor pack, 89p from Maplins - PART No RA17T ( best price was around £15 on the bay for a used resistor pack

Using bits of info from various people and places, the job probably took a cumulative 30 minutes if that.

For anyone reading this thread because they have this fault, I will explain what I did to get the blower working.

I decided to undo all of the Torx screws holding the Modutop to the roof using T30 and T20 Torx drivers.

First remove the sun visors using the T20 driver, then the 4 screws inside of each rear storage compartment (T30) noting that the rear end will hang freely. Next remove the two black screws at the front outermost edge of the Modutop. Before removing the two front silver screws from the centre of the sun visor locations (when folded away), support the centre of the Modutop with your free hand. I'm right handed, so I used my left to support whilst sitting in the drivers seat. Once the two remaining screws are removed, gently lower the Modutop until the rear end rests on the front seat headrests. The front end will remain in place without straining any wiring looms. You will probably find that the piece of plastic housing that covers the forward facing part of the blower unit will fall out, so watch your eyes :eek:

You will now have lots of room to access the three T30 screws holding the the blower unit to the roof, accessing the front facing side from the passenger seat to disconnect the loom from the switch plus the front retaining screw. The two rear side screws are accessed from the rear seats. Note that the drivers side bracket has locating hooks to assist in removal and refitting, so undo this one first.

Once the blower unit is removed, you can access the resistor pack (bright yellow housing held on top of the blower body by two Philips screws.

Testing- I balanced the blower on the passenger seat headrest having reconnected the switch loom to the blower and turning the switch to position 1. With the resistor pack hanging freely, I started the engine (blower will not work unless engine is running). Using a multimeter, I checked for a voltage drop across the thermal fuse which showed over 14V it should have been zero.. The act of putting the multimeter across the ends of the fuse was enough to set the fan running, which is why I used this method because it showed a working motor. You can just test the resistance of the fuse, which should be zero Ohms, but that doesn't show if the motor has failed.
If your fuse is OK, then the fault is elsewhere, but at least you have access to check for supply to various points of the circuit in the Modutop

I replaced the fuse using miniature spade connectors and a crimper, after snipping the old fuse from its mount. You can solder if you like, but I thought ahead and decided this would be easier should it fail again to just pull off the spade connectors.
Note that I have bent the spade connectors in the only direction possible. If they are bent the opposite way, the pack will not fit back into the blower body correctly.

The images below show the repair.

[Image: 447E976A-7B4E-465E-A8AE-753573B5D0F3.jpg]
This is the fan resistor pack

[Image: A8AF28FB-D396-4A53-8AAD-2B6DE8B05509.jpg]

[Image: 93D23672-58F2-4FBD-A98E-811158D54F39.jpg]
The spade connectors should only be bent this way

[Image: B5DEB0D6-8A65-44C1-8ED9-AF7281C1B7A0.jpg]
The thermal fuse crimped in place. - Rated at 152C. - Maplins part number RA17T

Refitting is a reversal of removing, although I found it best to loosely insert two rear screws to take the weight of the Modutop before working in the front. Remember to fit the front facing blower unit trim before tightening all screws too

[Jed Clampit]

Great wright up with pics top job alut: :thumbsup:

[BlueSlug]

Great wright up with pics top job alut: :thumbsup:

Well thank you kind sir

I do have some other "How to's" side lined as I wouldn't want to become the forum hog! :eek:
I've gained some great info on here, so it's nice to give back alut: